Hacking

Your tools

Insulated Gloves hackables have power lines, and cutting/pulsing these without gloves can harm you. It's possible to hack without them, but it will be slow, painful, and you'll need ointment.

Screwdriver for opening up panels and the like. A necessary tool.

Wirecutters for cutting and mending wires.

Multitool for pulsing wires. Not necessary for most hacking, but makes life a lot easier.

Signaler can be used as a ghetto alternative to a Multitool and to pulse wires remotly. Attach one on a wire, then use a second signaler to pulse that wire.

Hackables

Airlocks

Both internal and external access airlocks are hackable. Wires are randomized at the start of each round, but are standardized throughout the station, e.g. every orange wire might toggle the bolts. This is probably where you'll be doing the most of your hacking. Remember, cutting power to the door will stop everything else from working.

Screwdriver in hand, click on the airlock to open the panel and expose the wiring.
With multitool, wirecutters, or an empty hand, click on the airlock to access the wiring.
Fiddle with the wires by pulsing to test each one and cutting what you need to.
Screwdriver the door again to shut the panel. If the panel is open and you don't have a screwdriver, you can open it by using your ID on it.

There are two main power wires and two backup power wires.
Disabling main power will make the backup work in 10 seconds. Disabling both will make door lose power until something is restored.
- If the door is unpowered, it can be opened with a crowbar, unless the bolts are down.
Disabling AI control will make AI/Borgs unable to interact with this door; they can still hack in by either of power wires. It takes around a minute, and once the door is hacked, they'll be able to use it without AI control wire forever.
Disabling safety will make the door close even if there is a human in it.
Disabling timing will make it close almost instantly.

Wires
Name	Cutting	Mending	Pulsing
Main power	Disables main power. May shock!	Restores. May shock!	Disables main power for 1 minute.
Backup power	Disables backup power. May shock!	Restores. May shock!	Disables backup power for 1 minute.
ID scan	Nothing.	Nothing.	Flashes lights on the door, as if someone without access tries to open it.
Bolts	Drops door bolts.	Nothing.	Drops door bolts if they are up. Raises them if they are down and door is powered.
Bolt lights	Disables bolt lights.	Enables bolt lights.	Toggles bolt wires.
Open	Nothing.	Nothing.	Opens the door if it requires no access.
AI control	Disables AI control.	Restores AI control.	Very briefly disables AI control.
Shock	Electrifies the door.	De-electrifies the door.	Electrifies the door for 30 seconds.
Safety	Disables safety.	Enables safety.	Toggles safety.
Timing	Causes the door to close almost instantly after opening.	Restores.	Toggles door timing.

Status window
Name	Status	Shows that
Power	The test light is on.	Door is powered.
Power	The test light is off!	Door is not powered.
Bolts	The door bolts look up.	Door bolts are up.
Bolts	The door bolts have fallen!	Door bolts are down.
Bolt lights	The door bolt lights are on.	Door bolt lights are on.
Bolt lights	The door bolt lights are off!	Door bolt lights are off.
AI control	The 'AI control allowed' light is on.	AI can control the door and hasn't hacked it.
AI control	The 'AI control allowed' light is off.	AI either hacked a door or can't control it.
Safety	The 'Check Wiring' light is on.	Door safety is off.
Safety	The 'Check Wiring' light is off.	Door safety is on.
Timing	The 'Check Timing Mechanism' light is on.	Door timing is broken.
Timing	The 'Check Timing Mechanism' light is off.	Door timing is normal.

Airlock Strategies

Ghetto hacking involves accessing a useless airlock and cutting all of the wires in order until the bolts drop, making a note of the wire you just cut. Keeping this in mind, you can now open restricted doors by cutting all the wires except the bolt control and then crowbarring that fucker open. Useful if you don't have a multi-tool. Note that this is a bad idea if you lack gloves.
Open ID restricted doors by pulsing a main power wire and then crowbarring it open. If it's bolted, be sure to pulse the bolt wire before you kill the power or you're shit outta luck for a minute. (You can shorten this by cutting and mending the power wire, but by then the power would probably have reset anyway. Still, taking 20 seconds less to unhack the Escape shuttle doors is always good)
Create a pain-in-the-ass-obstacle by dropping the bolts, cutting all the wires, and then welding the door shut. This is especially effective if you happen to have the only pair of insulated gloves on the station.
Remotely pulse an airlock by attaching a signaler, which when signaled pulses the wire it's attached to. This allows you to remotely bolt and unbolt a door, for instance. Be sure to turn off the speaker so no one can hear it being toggled.
Use multitools for bolted as they are awesome. First find two wires of importance: the bolts wire, and the main power wire. Pulse a random door to find out the wires. If you get shocked, close that hacking window and move onto another door. Once you got the main power wire, head to an unbolted door, pulse the wire, crowbar it open. You get a larger window of time to crowbar, and you can do it without gloves. If a door is bolted, pulse the bolts wires, and go and cut the power then crowbar it.

APC

Controls power to its assigned room. All APC breakers can be accessed via Power Monitoring Computers regardless of the lock status, so hope that whoever's fucking with the power isn't paying attention.

Screwdriver in hand, click on APC to open the panel and expose the wiring.
Click with an empty hand to access the wiring.
Fiddle with the wires by pulsing to test each one and cutting what you need to.
Screwdriver it back up to toggle lighting, equipment, and atmospherics as you see fit (unless you've killed the power).

Cover lock prevents the APC from opening. If it's off, you can use a crowbar to open the APC.
Interface lock prevents anyone from using the APC. It is normally removed by swiping an ID card.

Wires
Name	Cutting	Mending	Pulsing
Power (2 wires)	Disables power. May shock!	Restores. May shock!	Disables power for 2 minutes. You must cut and mend the wire to restore power.
ID lock	Disable toggling the lock with an ID card.	Restores.	Unlocks APC interface for 30 seconds.
AI control	Disables AI control.	Restores.	Very briefly disables AI control.

Status window
Name	Status	Shows that
Lock	The APC is locked.	APC is locked.
Lock	The APC is unlocked.	APC is unlocked.
Power	The APCs power has been shorted.	APC is not working.
Power	The APC is working properly!	APC is working.
AI control	The 'AI control allowed' light is off.	AI/borgs can't interact with APC.
AI control	The 'AI control allowed' light is on.	AI/borgs can interact with APC.

Autolathe

I NEED 50,000 RCDS STAT!

Click on the Autolathe to open it.
Click on the Autolathe with a screwdriver in hand to access the wiring, then get a tool in your hand.
The window is glitched and won't show what wires are cut, so you better track what wires you modify. There are three important wires, which are randomized. Cutting them toggles their light permanently, pulsing does so temporarily (30 secs or something). Red light is power, green light is electrocution and blue is hacked options.

Have fun accessing some new options.

Wires
Name	Cutting	Mending	Pulsing
Power (shows red light if off)	Power off.	Power on.	Short (~30 secs) toggle off.
Electrocution (shows green light if on)	Electrocution.	Off.	Short (~30 secs) toggle on.
Hacked options (shows blue light if on)	Options on.	Off.	Short (~30 secs) toggle on.

Air Alarm

Station flooded with plasma and all of the Atmos Techs and CE are incompetent and/or dead? Best to take matters into your own hands.

Screwdriver to exposes wires.
Click to display Air Alarm interface and Wiring interface.
Three lights:
- The Air Alarm is locked/unlocked.
- The Air Alarm is working properly!/offline.
- The 'AI control allowed' light is on/off.
Five wires:
- Access wire: Pulsing toggles the interface's ID lock. Cutting locks the interface permanently until mended.
- Syphon wire: Pulsing toggles PANIC SYPHON on/off.
- Power wire: Pulsing disable the Air Alarm for 30(?) seconds, you can cut and mend the wire if in a hurry. Cutting the disables the Air Alarm until mended.
- AI Control wire: Pulsing will disable AI Control for 30(?) seconds. Cutting the wire disables the AI control until 30(?) seconds after mended.
- Alarm wire: Cutting starts the alarm, pulsing resets the alarm.
Screwdriver to close wiring.

Disabled Air Alarms will show no lights.

Wires
Name	Cutting	Mending	Pulsing
Power	Disables power.	Restores.	Disables power. Can be restored with mending.
Access	Locks the interface completely until mended.	Unlocks.	Toggles interface ID lock on/off.
Syphon	Starts PANIC SYPHON	Nothing	Toggles PANIC SYPHON on/off.
AI control	Disables AI control.	Restores after ~30 secs delay.	Temporarily (~30 secs) disable.
Alarm	Starts the alarm.	Nothing	Resets the alarm.

Security Cameras

The malfunctioning AI cannot siphon your air if you disable its eyes.

With a screwdriver in hand, click on the camera.
You can now do one of two things:
- Wirecutters: Cutting an open camera will disable the camera, mending it will re-enable the camera. The AI will receive a camera alert upon re-activation of a camera.
- Multitool: Pulsing will toggle the camera's vision range from 7 tiles (the default) to 2 tiles.

MULEbot

No better way to get away from it all with a joyride on a MULE! And run over some people with it too.

Unlock the controls with a Quartermaster's/Cargo Technician's/Head Of Personnel's/Captain's ID.
Unscrew the maintenance panel with the screwdriver.
See the table below and hack what you want.
Screw the panel back on.

Wires
Name	Cutting	Mending	Pulsing
Power (2 wires)	One or both cut = disables power.	Restores.	The charge light flickers. -message.
Motor (2 wires)	One cut = increases speed slightly. Other cut = increases speed greatly. Both cut = disables motor.	Restores.	The drive motor whines briefly. -message.
Radio (4 wires)	One or more cut = disables PDA control.	Restores.	You hear a radio crackle. -message.
Safety	Disables safety, awakens thirst for blood. (DON'T DO THIS UNLESS YOU'RE A TRAITOR OR WANT TO DIE)	Restores.	The external warning lights flash briefly. -message.
Load	Allows non-standard cargo (people, cyborgs, and other bots).	Disables.	The load platform clunks. -message.

Supply Shuttle Console

Who wants to order contraband (containing posters, lipstick and whatnot)?

Disassemble the Supply Shuttle Console with your screwdriver, crowbar and wirecutters
Grab the supply computer circuitboard
Multitool it and set its receiver to the appropriate spectrum
Put it back in and reassemble the console. You can now order contraband!

(Note that contraband is illegal. Security can do whatever they wish to it, and therefore you for bringing it on board)

Requests Console

Unhappy with your requests priority level? Crank it up to 'EXTREME'!

Crowbar the requests console panel open.
Use your screwdriver to enable the hidden priority level.
Close the panel with your crowbar.

Particle Accelerator

What safer way to release the singularity than doing it REMOTELY! That, or you can hack it to make it shoot more powerful particles!

Setup the PA if you haven't already, then use a screwdriver on the computer to open the panel/expose the wires.
Now click on the computer with a hand to bring up the wire menu. Here you can then get your tools in hand.
- Power wire: Pulsing toggles the PA on or off, cutting it will disable the PA and stop it from turning on.
- Strength wire: Pulsing increases the strength of the PA, cutting it will set the strength to 0 and prevent people turning it up.
- Interface wire: Interface wire will stop people being able to use the control computer. Pulsing will toggle this, cutting will turn it off until mended.
- Limit wire: Cutting will allow the PA to be turned up to strength 3. When pulsed it will make a large whirring noise.
- Nothing wire: Will do nothing, it's just here to make it harder.
Close the panel for the PA to then work again. IMPORTANT: Don't forget to scan the parts again.

You can also attach a Signaler to these wires to release the singularity, such as remotely pulsing the strength wire. Bonus points if you also pulse the interface wire so that people can't stop it!

Wires
Name	Cutting	Mending	Pulsing
Power	Disables power.	Restores.	Toggles power on/off.
Strength	Sets strength to 0 and prevents people from turning it up.	Restores.	Increases the strength.
Interface	Stops people from being able to use the control computer.	Restores.	Toggles interface off/on.
Limit	Allows PA to be turned up to strength 3.	Restores.	Makes a large whirring noise.
Nothing	Nothing.	Nothing.	Nothing.

Syndicate Bomb

A bomb! Are you a bad enough dude?

Check the description of the bomb to see if you have enough time left to even attempt a defusal. Use your best judgement for how much time you will need.
If the timer is very long, you might want to ask toxins for a bomb suit in case you fail. You'll still be killed, but at least you'll leave a cloneable corpse.
Screwdriver in hand, click on the bomb to open the panel and expose the wiring.
With multitool, wirecutters, or an empty hand, click on the bomb to access the wiring.
CAREFULLY fiddle with the wires by pulsing to test each one and cutting what you need to.
- Boom wire: Pulsing will explode the bomb instantly if the bomb is live and cutting will do much the same! There's no way to prepare for the boom wire if the bomb is already live, it's just an inherent risk. Cutting a boom wire that's not live will make the bomb unusable.
- Bolt wire: Pulsing will hint at this wire's function, cutting will release the bolts holding the bomb down if they were activated to begin with. Ditch that bomb!
- Delay wire: Pulsing will add time to the clock of the bomb, giving you a little more breathing room.
- Proceed wire: Pulsing will reduce the clock, making your life that much harder. Cutting this wire while the bomb is live will explode the bomb!
- Activate wire: Pulsing a bomb that isn't live will start the countdown and cutting a bomb that IS live will stop the countdown. If you've identified this wire, you've won!

Keep in mind that randomly cutting live bomb wires carries a 40% risk of sudden death when pulsing carries just a 20% risk of sudden death! Ultimately you will HAVE to cut a wire to stop the explosion, but with a little research with pulsing you can improve your success rate. There's a test bomb in the armory if you want to practice without the risk of boom.

LIVE Bomb Wires
Name	Cutting	Mending	Pulsing
Activate	Stops the countdown.	Nothing.	Adds time to the timer. "The bomb seems to hesitate for a moment."
Delay	Nothing.	Nothing.	Adds time to the timer. "The bomb chirps."
Bolt	Releases the bolts (if they were activated) so that the bomb can be moved.	Nothing.	"The bolts spin in place for a moment."
Proceed	Explodes.	Nothing, u ded.	Reduces time on the timer! "The bomb buzzes ominously!"
Boom	Explodes.	Nothing, u ded.	Explodes.

NOT LIVE Bomb Wires
Name	Cutting	Mending	Pulsing
Activate	Nothing.	Nothing.	Starts the countdown.
Delay	Nothing.	Nothing.	"The bomb chirps."
Bolt	Releases the bolts (if they were activated) so that the bomb can be moved.	Nothing.	"The bolts spin in place for a moment."
Proceed	Nothing.	Nothing.	"The bomb buzzes ominously!"
Boom	Makes the bomb unusable.	Restores.	Nothing.

Plastic Explosives (C4)

For an awesome way to go out!

One wire.
- Explode wire: When cut, it explodes. When pulsed, it explodes!

You can attach a Signaler to make a remote bomb.

Wires
Name	Cutting	Mending	Pulsing
Explode	Explodes.	Nothing.	Explodes.

Vending Machines

The only thing worth hacking!

Click on the vending machine to open it.
Click on the vending machine with a screwdriver in hand to access the wiring, then get a tool in your hand.
Button to toggle speaker on/off.
Four lights:
- The orange light is off.Indicates the machine is electrified when on.
- The red light is blinking/off. Blinking indicate that it is working normally, off means it's in firing mode.
- The green light is off/on. Indicate that contraband is available when on.
- A purple/yellow light is on.
Four wires:
- Firing wire: If pulsed will fire stuff at people contentiously until pulsed again. Cutting causes machine to fire stuff at people contentiously until mended. Toggles the red blinking light off when in firing mode.
- Contraband wire: Cutting does nothing. When pulsed toggles availability of illegal or rare goods, also toggles the green light on/off.
- Access wire: When pulsed it toggles the purple/yellow light, allowing for ID restricted machines (med machines, sec machines, and the bartenders Booze-o-mat) to be used by anyone when the yellow light is on.
- Shock wire: Like the firing wire in effects from hacking, except it shocks instead of shoots, and toggles the orange light on. Pulsing this wire electrifies the machine for 30 seconds.

Wires
Name	Cutting	Mending	Pulsing
Firing	Causes the machine to fire stuff at people (turns off red blinking light).	Restores.	Toggles firing on/off.
Contraband	Nothing.	Nothing.	Toggles illegal/rare goods availability on/off (shown by a green light).
Access	Activates the access restriction.	Nothing	Toggles the access restriction(purple/yellow light).
Shock	Causes the machine to electrocute people (shown by an orange light).	Restores.	Electrifies the machine for 30 seconds.

Secure Briefcase, Wall Safe

seriously who is dumb enough to use these things anyway god damn

Screwdriver in hand, click on the (briefcase/safe) to open the panel and expose the wiring
Multi-tool-spam the (briefcase/safe) until you get a confirmation that the memory is reset.
The memory is now reset. Punch in your favorite code and hit E to set it.
Screwdriver the panel shut.

Safe

The safe found in the Vault can be opened like this:

Use a stethoscope on it.
Spin the dial +, -, +, switching rotation direction when the safe makes a click sound.
Third click should be the final unlock.
Open.

Radio/Intercom

Screwdriver in hand, click on the radio.
The usual radio use panel will pop up, but now with access to the wiring.
Three wires:
- Output wire: Pulsing toggles the speaker on/off. Cutting disables the speaker without showing it.
- Input wire: Pulsing toggles the microphone on/off. Cutting disables the microphone without showing it.
- Dummy wire: Pulsing turns the microphone and speaker off, but turns them on if they are both off already. Cutting does nothing.
Screwdriver again to close the wires.

Interestingly, Tracking Beacons also count as radios.

Wires
Name	Cutting	Mending	Pulsing
Output	Disables speaker.	Restores.	Toggles speaker on/off.
Input	Disables microphone.	Restores.	Toggles microphone on/off.
Dummy	Nothing.	Nothing.	Toggles both the microphone and speaker on/off.

Suit Storage Unit

The thing nobody remembers ~~to check~~.

Open the storage unit's maintenance panel with a screwdriver and two things can be changed:

Pressing the button next to the green LED light will turn the safety off, allowing you to cram a body in.
The UV energy dial can be cranked up from the original 15nm to 185nm, completely frying the contents of the storage to a crisp. Which may include the aforementioned body.

Security Gas Mask

Security Gas Mask has a hidden aggressiveness-setting. Higher aggressiveness equals meaner "shitcurity" shouts coming out when the HALT-feature is used.

Use a screwdriver to change it from lowest (first) to highest (last) setting. For maximum aggressiveness, use wirecutters. Note that this can't be reset once you wirecut it.

Cyborgs

Use these tools in this order to hack a borg:

ID Card
Crowbar
Screwdriver (You may or may not have to remove the battery first)
Wirecutters will open a window. Multitool pulsing seems to do nothing, you can just cut and mend wires.
Screwdriver
Crowbar
ID Card

Cyborgs that have had their programming tampered with can be repaired by resetting their AI connection and LawSync status, by manually pulsing the wiring. In the unlikely event that an AI goes crazy, a trained Roboticist or other technician should be able to sever the connection to the AI entirely by cutting the correct wire.

There are three lights in the cyborg with three corresponding wires:

LawSync: If this light is on, it means that any laws uploaded to the AI are also uploaded to the cyborg. The cyborg cannot be given different laws to the AI as long as this is on. This light will turn off if the AI Link light is off, regardless of wire status.
- Pulsing does nothing.
- Cutting will do nothing, as long as the AI link light is on. If the AI link light is off, cutting and then turning the AI link back on will cause the cyborg to be slaved to an AI, but not synced with it's laws.
- Mending this wire will turn the LawSync light back on as long as the AI link light is also on. The cyborg will then resume syncing with the AI's laws. If the AI link light is off, mending this will turn the light on, only for it to turn off again.

AI Link: If this light is on, it shows that the Cyborg is slaved to an AI and must follow that AI's orders.
- Pulsing this wire allows you to pick an AI for the cyborg to be slaved to if there are multiple AIs. If there is only one AI, pulsing this will simply turn it on and slave the cyborg to it, if it is off.
- Cutting this wire will cause the Cyborg to be unslaved from the AI and bound only by it's laws. This also turns off LawSync, as the cyborg has no AI to sync to.
- Mending this wire does nothing. You need to pulse it to reconnect it to an AI.

Camera: If this light is on, it shows that the Cyborg's camera is operational. If it is off and the wire is mended, then you have a traitor Cyborg.
- Pulsing this wire will focus the Cyborg's lens, allowing you figure out which wire it is. It will also kick out anyone who is watching through the camera.
- Cutting this wire will deactivate the Cyborg's camera, causing it to show as "deactivated" on the Security Console and the AI's camera list.
- Mending this wire will reactivate the Cyborg's camera.

An emagged cyborg will have no LawSync or AI link and cannot be reset.

Remember, cyborgs are very expensive! Do not destroy them unless the cyborg is completely out of control, and resetting the AI and LawSync status doesn't work.

Tips

You can get 1000 watt powercells out of space heaters for your evil needs.
You don't need to cut a camera's power wire to disable it, you can just pulse it. This means you can attach a remote signaler to that wire and use a second signaler set to the same frequency and code to toggle the camera off and on.
Hacking doors: Cutting the power wire does 10 seconds to back up power. But pulsing also switches to back up power after 10 seconds, meaning if you want to open the same door for your exit you need to pulse the BACKUP wire to interrupt power. I think it switches back to primary after 1 minute again. Best thing is pulse both the primary and backup then crowbar - that should give you the old style 1 minute window.
To restore primary power to a door immediately, cut then mend the primary power wire. Cutting + mending is incredibly useful when you've accidentally electrified a door, or shorted APC power.
Use screwdriver on mousetrap, attach to an igniter instead of a timer when making a grenade assembly, you've just made a landmine. Combine with a 100-100 potassium-water mix and anyone who steps on it will regret it.
Singularity’s EMP can be abused to short out lockers.
Inject plasma into a battery and insert it into a stun baton/prod. The next time someone attacks with the baton on it will blow up on them, seriously wounding both the holder and the stun target. Doing it with a high capacity battery or better will create a blast strong enough to turn the floor under the attacker to space, which will suck in the people caught in the blast and crit them before they can wake up. Use it as a suicide weapon or place it in the halls for some gullible fool to get himself killed with ~~if you want to be banned~~ if you're an antagonist.
You can emag the light replacer, which causes all of the lights to be filled with plasma which will ignite if the light bulb's turned on.
There is a single power cable supplying the entire station with power. If you don't feel like spending crystals for a power sink and you don't get seen for a minute near engineering, you can disable the power grid so that only very competent engineers will spot your sabotage. Though this only works if the solars aren’t set up.
You can emag buttons to remove access.
Wall-mounted flashers and portable flashers can be disabled with wirecutters.
If you screwdriver a heater you can take out its really crappy battery or adjust the temperature it outputs. The highest setting, 90 C, will actually hurt people extremely slowly if they aren't wearing internals.
You can screwdriver Detectives revolver and load .357 in it, but you can get blown up by this revolver. ADDED: Remember to unload the thing while you're doing it, or you'll shoot yourself in a similar manner to sawing a loaded shotgun.
As a traitor engineer, you could easily do the following:
1. Go to a room, like a construction room, and find the APC's wire that shorts out the power.
2. Grab two signalers and adjust their frequencies.
3. Go to telecomms, in a hardsuit, and attach a signaler to the APC's power wire, which you found before. Close the APC and leave no traces.
4. You can now disable comms any time you want for a few minutes - and unless someone checks the APC and/or doesn’t look too closely or asks the AI, they will think it was an ionospheric anomaly. HONK.
A good way to manually disable tcomms temperately is to set the filtering frequency on the hub to some number like 0.1. It'll block everything and most engineers don't know how to fix it.
If you want tcomms down for good, disconnect the network links. There are -very- few engineers who can fix that, and it'll take over ten minutes if they're experienced with how tcomms works. It'll probably force a shuttle call.
Another thing that can break tcomms: changing network of the machinery. It also breaks all links. Especially if you change it from tcommsat to something like tcomms or tcommsats, which is not that obvious when you take a look at it without knowing what is the issue. And even if they relink everything again it won't work. And then even if they realize that the problem is with the network name, when they change it back, it will reset all the links again!
If you see a pAI with a great reputation who you like, and someone else has claimed it first, use an emag to unbind it.
If someone is hacking a door and you want to keep them from following you, and you know all or most of the wires:

Cut 1-3 useless wires (typically some combination of Door Control, ID Wire, Timing, Safety)
Cut the bolt lights wire
Cut the bolts wire
Cut every other wire except the shock wire
Cut the shock wire

This makes it incredibly obnoxious to follow you - if they don't know the wires and don't have insulated gloves, they're SOL because even the AI can't help them pursue.

Cutting the shock wire doesn't shock you, as far as I have been able to tell. Mending it, on the other hand....
If you want to test hacking doors without pissing off sec for breaking in somewhere and you have maint, you can make your own airlock with the aux tool storage thing and make it somewhere obscure.
Camera Bug:
- The camera bug Syndicate item has four different modifications that you can apply to it using various items for each but it can only store one of them at a time, you'll need to screwdriver it to remove the modifying item. It doesn't matter what modification is installed when you bug a camera meaning you can switch out the modifying item for another one to access different features. While these were all described in the completed code thread for this item the information given was minimal and the listed items were only temporary and aren't accurate anymore.
- The network mod which requires ANY kind of radio device (Yes, you can somehow fit an electropack inside), a remote signaler or a subspace transmitter basically turns it into a portable security camera console by connecting to the entire camera network with no need to actually bug any cameras. Note that it can only detect cameras that are on the SS13 network meaning constructed cameras using a different network name won't be picked up even if you've bugged them, you'll have to remove the network mod to see through a bugged camera that's using a different network. Also something to note is that while it detects cameras on other Z-levels with the SS13 network as existing it can only pick up camera signals from the Z-level you're in.
- The sabotage mod (Igniter, infrared emitter or subspace amplifier) EMP's a bugged camera at the press of a button for each singular camera which obviously disables it for a short period of time and removes the bug. While one may think to simply bug the cameras in an area you intend to say murder people in and then disable them when the time comes the AI will immediately be notified of the disabled cameras and will know exactly where shit might be going down. A better cover would be to bug as many cameras as possible and then disable them all at once effectively blinding the AI of much of the station.
- The advanced mod (Detective scanner, pAI or scanning module) allows you to track anybody that one of your bugged cameras detect although you'll need to manually follow them by switching to the next bugged camera that they're in view of. The tracking interface will automatically uPDAte every few seconds to tell you what if any bugged cameras detect them including if they leave your bugged camera coverage entirely and then return to it at any point. Note that you can only track people for as long as you keep the interface on the tracking menu, if you cancel tracking you can't resume it until they're detected again.
- The universal mod (Atmos analyzer, plant analyzer or subspace analyzer) allows you to view through any cameras bugged by another camera bug as each of them have their own little network separate from one another. Basically if there's another traitor running around bugging cameras you can also see through them which is fairly worthless as camera bugs aren't exactly a popular choice.
- Other little things about the camera bug include that each camera can only contain one bug, in order to remove a camera bug you simply use the camera bug on it again, bugging a camera leaves no traces of any sort at all and while you can't receive a signal from bugged cameras on other Z-levels you can still use modification features such as disable and detection with them.
Put bombs in the backpacks of brain-dead or catatonic people. ADDED: Advanced version: Get mouse traps, connect one with signaler with set frequency, then make a bomb with signaler on the same frequency. Put both in backpack. Wear it or leave it somewhere/on someone. ADDED: Wizard Mode: Take your 6 max cap bomb and build 6 voice analyzers from an autolathe. Set the trigger words to "Pete", "beat", "chick", "chicky", "boom". Find 6 station bound radios, and place each of them in a backpack with a corresponding bomb hidden about the station. Sing the song that ends the station.
The secret to hacking syndi bombs effectively is to remember that the only wire that doesn't do anything on pulse when the bomb isn't live is the boom wire (aka the one to attach a signaler to after you start the countdown for 4 hours then call attention to it).
You can wrench syndibombs to the ground so they can't be immediately picked up and spaced.
Deactivating cameras has them show up as (Deactivated) to anybody scrolling through cameras, but disassembling them completely removes them entirely from the list.
You can make "voice-bomb":attach Voice Analyzer with Remote Signalling Device and set frequency.
1. Make grenade, but dont use igniter+TIMER,use IGNITER+SIGNALLER and set for frequensy of your Voice+Signaller
2. Say your "special" word=BOOM!
3. SPECIAL:You can inject this bomb into your body with Voice+Signaller,in crit situation say "special" word and BOOM!
The BYOND ticks are longer than a second, so in Syndicate Bombs; the reason they take so long to detonate is you set them to "60 seconds" and it's actually "60 ticks" giving you 2.5 minutes instead of 1.